Monday, September 27, 2010

Getting Better... just in time for Paris Fashion Week!

So, I finally have some time to write but nothing to write about! I’ve had the worst cold and was not up to doing anything this weekend. I stayed in bed, drank tea, read, and caught up on TV premieres on Itunes (very exciting for me because I haven’t been able to watch english TV, but not so great for my Dad’s Itunes account... Thanks, Dad!) My new favorite, Modern Family, has definitely maintained its hilarity and Gossip Girl was filmed in Paris! Actually, the very street I’m living on was mentioned, but not in the most flattering way... Blair, the most elitist of the bunch, wanted to prove she could socialize with ‘the proletariat’ so she made a gesture of getting a kebab on rue de la Huchette. I thought it was pretty funny and can definitely appreciate the sentiment - this particular area is not known for its Michelin stars or super glam crowd. However, despite Gossip Girl’s opinion, I still think its pretty charming and am growing to love it dearly.

One definite plus of this neighbourhood is that its always busy. My street is never completely empty - the late night party goers swap with the early morning baking crew who swap with a midday crowd of tourists. I’m sure this would be a nightmare for some people, but it has a nice energy and makes me feel safe. It also turns the most uneventful of days into something interesting...

On Saturday, I went to the pharmacy (literally across the road) and came face to face with the Paris Techno Parade! I’m so surprised I didn’t hear it more clearly from my apartment because it was loud! There was a never ending stream of trucks with different DJs and humungous speakers, which was accompanied by double decker party buses, hoards upon hoards of people, and the requisite police presence. The pharmacy wasn’t closed thankfully, but Starbucks wasn’t letting anyone in (even a sick girl in search of tea) and I could only get into Monoprix after a bag search! I had no idea what was going on at the time, but, after some google-ing, its apparently the third biggest techno parade in the world and a half million people go to it (unknowingly I was one of them!) It was a pretty big inconvenience but also seriously incredible, and such a good distraction during a sick day.

I’m feeling a ton better right now. I went to class today and was finally able to pronounce all the nasal sounds - a definite perk of being congested! In general, my pronunciation is horrible (even in English) but things are looking up... I’m going to master ‘un’, ‘en’, and ‘on’ in no time! Hopefully I can keep it up while being healthy...

I haven’t taken any pictures in the last couple of days - I only now know that I might run into a picture-worthy techno parade at any moment, so will take my camera everywhere. The next week should be interesting because Paris Fashion Week starts tomorrow! I really don’t know what to expect, although I do suspect it won’t be that exciting for mere non-fashion insiders like myself. Regardless, it feels like a mini Christmas Eve for me and I’m excited to check out the tents by the Grand Palais in the morning! My fashion scouting will be interrupted by class in the afternoon and then I’m going to a concert at Notre Dame tomorrow night. So, I can promise some interesting pictures tomorrow!

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Family Visit!

Holy Dinah! It has been over a week since I've posted anything - Probably because my biggest fans (and those who most consistently ask for news) were here! My Mom and Dad and Meg and Jean (their best friends and quasi-parents to me) were going around France and made a last stop in Paris.

The first day, my Dad and Jean had to drop off their rental car and, despite the crazy Parisian traffic, they made it back alright - Its really not a stereotype that driving in Paris is a nightmare! Meanwhile, us girls had lunch in the Luxembourg Garden and then we all met up to take a boat cruise. Its always such a good way to get oriented and see everything quickly.

It was my Mom’s birthday on Sunday, which we celebrated by going to the Marais for the world’s best falafel! (Pierre Herme was closed, so we had to wait until Monday for his pastries.) We spent most of the afternoon on a bus tour, which was actually a lot of fun. Its so worth looking like a lame tourist because you basically just sit in the sun and get to see one awesome thing after another. I would definitely recommend it!

Because it was Sunday and most good restaurants are closed, I decided to make dinner at my apartment. It was a bit squishy (my kitchen can seriously hold no more than 1.5 people) but, with the help of paper plates and easygoing guests, it turned out fine. It was a nice way to share some of my favorite Monoprix finds too, including tomato and basil tortellini with salted butter, herbed cheese with baguette, salad with tomatoes and parmesan, and, of course, lots of wine!

On Monday it was my Dad’s and Meg’s birthday! We walked around the Louvre, up by the Opera House (it was closed for a rehearsal), and then had lunch at the cafe at Galleries Lafayette (definitely one of my favorite spots - a good salad bar with a view!) I had class in the afternoon, but they continued on a tour to Montmartre. We went for an amazing dinner at a restaurant called Les Bouqinistes - It was delicious! I’d heard about it from quite a few people, and it definitely lived up to my expectations. I couldn’t resist anything on the table and ended up having bites of mushrooms, prawns, lamb, ‘tiny vegetables’ that were weirdly adorable, two different kinds of fish, and lots of dessert. My absolute favorite was the mashed potato that came with my meal - so, so good. I’m not doing a very great of describing any of this because there was so much more to it, but it was the best meal I’ve had here yet!

Meg and Jean left the following morning, but my parents stayed with me for the next two days. We walked around St. Germain des Pres and went to the Bon Marche Grande Epicerie for lunch. I had class but they went on to walk past the Eiffel Tower to the Trocadero around the Musee d’Orsay and back to the Latin Quarter. We went La Tourelle for dinner, and it was surprisingly good. Matt and I had been and it was good, but this time it was even better. And I’ve found a new love - escargots! I’m pretty sure anything in that much butter and garlic would be delicious, but these are amazing. I’ve also expanded my limited carnivorous preferences to include lamb. In fact, La Tourelle was so good that we went back the night after!

My Mom and Dad went home on Thursday, but only after some serious public transportation drama. Before they left I showed them how to take the train to the airport and made sure they got their tickets. I’ve been on it before when Matt came and think its generally the most effective way to get there, especially because there’s an elevator to the platform just outside my apartment. But, this being France, it was strike day! So the train wasn’t running and we had to find a taxi in rush hour... But, everything worked out alright, and they got home safely. (Except my Dad’s luggage was lost, which is seriously like the 6th time Air Canada has done that to him - I’m beginning to think its on purpose!)

Since then, I’ve been sick! I didn’t feel very well in class on Thursday and its finally become a full blown cold. I didn’t go outside at all yesterday except to get coffee and some groceries. It was also pouring outside yesterday! Today, I’m just staying in with some tea and a few good books. Thankfully I brought some Advil Cold and Sinus in my first aid kit, so at least I’m medicated!

I didn’t take very many pictures during the last week, but here are some favorites, mostly from the boat cruise, notre dame and the bus tour... (I don't have one picture of Jean - I dont know how that happened!! Sorry!)


Boat Cruise




Notre Dame






Ile St. Louis



On the bus tour...





Friday, September 17, 2010

Class, Quiche and Cacharel

I’m done my first week of French class - It isn’t as nearly as difficult as anticipated, which is great for maintaining the holiday-vibe I’m enjoying and I may even be learning something. I understand everything being said (a highly unusual feeling here), can do my written homework, and can actually ask/respond in French! If nothing else, its definitely increasing my confidence and I totally appreciate the opportunity to practice. I’ve even noticed that I’m more willing to speak in the real French world (although a nice smile and plenty of “merci’s” seems to get me what I want anyway.) I’m hoping next week will be a little more challenging, but so far its been pretty good.

I was off on Wednesday and went to Forum des Halles. I went out of curiousity because everything I’ve read about it says its an absolute nightmare - which I can now confirm. Its a huge, weird underground metro station/shopping mall. Everything is concrete with low ceilings and its impossible to know what direction you’re going. Although, despite it being ugly and confusing, I did find some good shopping. I got a few dresses from a place called ‘we’ - I’ve never heard about it before, but its H&M-esque. And, speaking of, the H&M was really good but too busy so I left without anything. I’m also not so keen on shopping at H&M because I can do that at home!

Also, as I was making a triumphant escape from the concrete jungle, I found a place packed with cool street vendors - tons of shoes and clothes and unique things. I got a pair of boots and then went to La Boulangerie Julien. It had been on my list of places to eat (yes, I have a specific list for bakeries) but I just found it by chance. Luckily I was hungry and got some quiche to-go and a pain au chocolat. I took them to a nearby park, listened to my ipod, and ate for about an hour. (This sounds gross on second read, but I’m usually a slow eater anyway and was just particularly so this time.) Needless to say, they were both amazing.

Today I indulged in something different but equally as incredible - fashion! I got a membership to the Musee des Arts Decoratifs and made my first visit. I don’t know that much about it, but it seems this museum primarily covers fashion and all elements of interior design. One of the exhibits they have now is the History of Contemporary Fashion: 1970s and 80s. This is definitely not my most favorite period, but it was still amazing to go to. I was mostly struck by how beautifully everything was displayed - a vignette per designer with interesting descriptions and layered with projected fashion shows! I wish the clothes weren’t behind glass because you don’t see them as well, but it was obviously still amazing. Some highlights included YSL’s 1971 controversial 40s-inspired collection, Cacharel florals, Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe patterned dresses, Madame Gres grecian gowns (a new found love!), Issey Miyake, Commes des Garcons, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel early days, and Christian Lacroix. A definite surprise was Thierry Mugler - so good! I’ve never been that impressed by his clothes, but in person they’re so much better. They’re like intricate costumes which seem at home in a museum (even more so sans the 80s hair). It was worth the risk taking pictures, although they didn’t out very clearly.

Also exciting about this exhibition, there’s a follow up for the 90s and 2000s! I think it starts in November and you can bet I’ll be there! I’m already imagining the Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs...

So, there are actually quite a few pictures from the fashion exhibit, despite the no-camera policy - I was pretty sneaky and didn't get caught until the end! Sorry if you're not interested (ahem, brother Daniel) but I'm hoping maybe they'll provide a glimpse into why I am (texture, craftsmanship, color, shape, overall prettiness).




Love the leather against the softness


Cacharel



Madame Gres


Lagerfeld for Chloe


Thierry Mugler!







Two of my favorites (red is Chanel, white/multicolor is Christian Lacroix)




Christian Lacroix


The top of the museum (its in the very north west part of the Louvre) has incredible views of the city, but the windows were really dirty so only a few pictures turned out! There was also a really cute, really random ceramic dog in a niche by the window.







Quiche...

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

just checking in...

I wasn't planning on writing today but I just read that there was a bomb threat for the Eiffel Tower, so thought I would let everyone know I'm alright! I honestly didn't know anything was wrong until now - I spent the afternoon in class, read for awhile in the Jardin du Luxembourg and then came home. I'm sure everything will be back to normal very soon, so no need to worry!

Monday, September 13, 2010

en français, s'il vous plaît

This is the first September since Kindergarten that I won’t be going back to school. It is beyond weird to me, and I’m actually a little sad about it. I’ve had a serious love for formal education since I started - all the way from reading Charlotte’s Web to writing my final Master’s policy report. I love interesting lectures, writing papers under pressure (always the procrastinator), and doing research. Being a student is when I feel most purposeful and engaged - like I actually have something meaningful to gain from participating in the process.

Although, considering I just finished school a month ago, I definitely remember the stress and hard work. The last couple of months were really challenging, so I totally appreciate the break! But I’m already getting antsy to start something new - I should’ve known it wouldn’t take long. I sense I’ll be writing some grad school applications while I’m here (Attn: UBC Sociology department!)

And actually, I did start something new today - French classes! I’m taking them through Alliance Francaise, every Monday, Tuesday and Thursday afternoon for the next five weeks. My teacher’s name is Marion and she’s super nice. There’s about fifteen other people in the class but its small enough that we get to talk pretty often.

As much as I like the class, I’m not sure its the right one for me... There was an administrative mistake that misplaced my placement test (I don’t know how this is possible because it was online) so they automatically put me in the beginner class. I recognize my French is limited, but I’ve taken class-based French up until university so I don’t think I’m a ‘very beginner’. I’ll stick it out for the first week and see how fast I do the workbook, and then maybe I’ll switch. Until then, “Je m’appelle Lindsey, je suis canadienne...”

Nothing very picture-worthy happened today, but here are some from my outings yesterday, including sculptures at the Louvre, some serious Sunday window shopping at vintage boutiques at the Palais Royale, and more Berthillon and Pierre Herme







My new favorite dress at Didier Ludot...


Chanel heaven





Some more indulgences! (I'm doing plenty of walking to work it off, fyi)

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Bon Voyage to Matt, Bonjour to Berthillon

Matt left Friday morning - back to Saskatoon to finish his last year of school. It was so good to have him here for the first couple of weeks. We shared a lot of memorable adventures and being together definitely helped me feel more at ease. I’ll definitely miss his company, but I’m also grateful to still be here.

I’ve already noticed a much slower pace to the day - I spent most of Friday reading in the Luxembourg Garden, which is quickly becoming my favorite place in Paris. It is unbelievably pretty - the flower beds are so well maintained, the lawns groomed to perfection, architectural interest everywhere, and there is always a comfortable lounge chair. The people watching is also pretty good, so when I get tired of reading, I can just look up and be entertained. This place is so close to my ideal spot that I can usually even ignore a few major annoyances - mainly fearless pigeons that will dive-bomb at you when you least expect it and a marching band that plays right outside the gates. Despite this, I still love spending time there.

Yesterday was a pretty exciting day because I got my membership to the Musee d’Orsay! French museums are awesome for people under 25 because they sell annual memberships for super cheap (e.g. 11 euro for unlimited access to the Musee d’Orsay and l’Orangerie, and free admission to their lectures, concerts, etc.) The only downside is the amount of paperwork you have to fill out initially - although it was my fault because I did it wrong the first time! After I finally got the pass, I did a quick tour of the museum. It was really busy so I didn’t spend that much time there. I also think its way better when you do some reading before, so I bought some books and will be back soon!

Its seems ridiculous (and entirely awesome!) that I’m a twenty minute walk away from, and have unlimited access to, the world’s most incredible art collections. It feels amazing and totally surreal that the hardest decision I have to make today is whether I want to see Da Vinci and Vermeer at the Louvre, or Degas and Van Gogh at the Musee d’Orsay. It is seriously incredible!

But actually, I have to go to the Louvre today because my computer charger is being weird and there’s an Apple store close by (fingers crossed its open on a Sunday). For the last couple of days, whenever I plug my computer in, it kind of vibrates through the metal parts when I touch it, like a mini electro-shock... I’m no computer genius, but this is probably not a good thing. I am deeply attached to my computer, so lets hope its fix-able!

Anyway, here are some pictures from the last couple of days when Matt was here...




We went to the Père Lachaise Cemetery and saw Jim Morrison and Chopin's graves... It was creepy. And, even though it was pouring, there was a pretty steady stream of people wanting to visit Morrison.





Also, I made the culinary pilgrimage to Berthillon yesterday. It was unbelievable and way beyond any ice cream I’ve ever had, and unquestionably worth the 20+ minute wait in line! I got three scoops (they were small) of pure dairy bliss - vanilla, caramel, and pear. The vanilla and pear are tied for favorites, but I have a lot more sampling to do before I can make a definitive choice. I was going to take a picture but it was too hot outside and it was melting too fast, maybe next time.